Glossary of Renaissance Dress and Textile Terms

The Sources

A

ADOGATO/ADDOGATO. Particolored with broad stripes of cloth. An inventory of 1414 registers a tunic addogata with green and monachino. (Herald)

AFFALDATO. Arranged into neat folds. Particularly from the mid-century on, garments were cut with far greater precision of tailoring, the arrangement of folds from the shoulders down being a very important factor in defining the fashionable silhouette. The letters of Galeazzo Maria Sforza of 1475 include an entry for a 'zornea de la moscharole' which was 'tuta afaldata e non da petto'; this suggests that the bodice fitted smoothly, whilst the folds came from the waist (Porro, op.cit., p. 663). (Herald)

B

BALDACCHINO. A silk textile, possibly originating in Baghdad (vocabolario della Crusca). Baldacchino is not registered very often as a textile used for clothing, though an inventory of 1417 records a cotta of red baldacchino, and another of 1452 lists a gamurra pavonazza with sleeves of baldacchino (Polidori Calamandrei, op.cit., p. 126). Alternatively, the word baldacchino is used for a hanging or canopy. (Herald)

BALZANA/BALZA. Trimming around the hemline of a gown, e.g. jewelled ornaments around the hemline of a dress, or a border of contrasting textile or fur. (Herald)

BALZO (F). A large headdress, rising up in a rounded form from the forehead, completely hiding the female wearer's head (the hairline having been plucked back to create an artificially high forehead). The shape of the headdress is founded on an understructure, probably of willow, which is covered by a rich textile and alternatively by false hair of white or yellow silk, or by real hair (capelli morti). The balzo then may be decorated further with ribbon or braid. The fashion of balzo is peculiar to Italy, and to the first half of the Quattrocento. (Herald)

BAMBAGIA. A linen or cotton textile used for interfacing garments. It is invariably sold by weight, rather than the length of braccia. (Herald)

BECA/BECCA (F). Probably a belt of silk to which the hose are attached. A trousseau listed in 1493 included two beche of velvet, with gold laces (G. Biagi, Due corredi nuziali fiorentini, 1320-1493, Florence, 1899). (Herald)

BRACHE/BRAGHE (M). In the fourteenth century, long balloonish versions of these were worn by laughable caricatures in the novelle related by Baccaccio and Sacchetti. As underpants, they are listed in the fifteenth century under entries for panni di gamba. More frequently, however, underpants are referred to as mutande. (Herald)

BRAGHETTA (M). Codpiece; a kind of pouch devised to hide the genitals. Braghette began to be worn at the end of the century as doublets grew shorter and shorter. (Herald)

BREDONE. A pair of bredoni appears in the letters of Galeazzo Maria Sforza. They are probably pieces which hang down from the back of the shoulders, perhaps vestiges of fuller hanging sleeves. (Herald)

BROCCATO. Brocade, a textile usually made of silk, in which the patterning is introduced with one or more supplementary wefts. In a true brocade, the brocading weft is confined to the area of the pattern where it is needed, and then turns back on itself at the end of a motif, i.e. the patterning weft is not carried across from selvedge to selvedge. In the fifteenth century, the term is used in this strict sense; it rarely appaers on its own as a noun, but qualifies a description of the cloth, e.g. velluto chermisi broccato d'oro e d'argento. (Herald)

BRUSCHINO. A shade of dark red, verging on pavonazzo often used for cioppe. (Herald)

BUSTO/PETTO (M/F). The top part of the main body of the garment, probably referring to the area from shoulder to waist. It was becoming more and more common in the Quattrocento for garments to have the bodice and skirt cut separately. (Herald)

C

CALCETTO. A light short sock of linen, providing a washable layer between the foot and the calza of wool or silk. (Herald)

CALZE (M/F). Hose or stockings, usually made of woollen cloth, but also of silk. The men's calze are conveniently attached to the farsetto by means of laces and eyelets. There is no definite indication as to how the women's calze were supported, though a reference to a beca in 1493 provides a clue. Some form of harder footwear (botte, scarpe, stivali) is often worn over the calze. But when calze constitute the only layer of legwear, a piece of leather or felted wool would be attached to the sole of each foot. (Herald)

CAMICIA/CAMISA (M/F). The chemise, made usually of linen, but occasionally of cotton or silk. In the earlier part of the century, the camicia is a functional washable layer of clothing worn between the skin and the outer woollen or silk garments. However, as the Quattrocento progresses, the chemise, revealed through slits and slashes down the sleeves and the bodice, and around the neckline, becomes more decorated with embroidered bands around the collar and cuffs. There must have been regional variations also; e.g. men's shirts 'a modo di Firenze' (Strozzi, op. cit., p. 100). (Herald)

CAPPA (M). A garment with sleeves, associated with the roba. (Herald)

CAPPELLO (M/F). A hat with a substantial brim, often made of straw. Considerable quantities of straw hats were exported to France (and presumably elsewhere in the north of Europe) from the late fourteenth century (J. Evans, Dress in Medieval France, Oxford University Press, 1952, p. 51). These hats were sometimes lined with black silk or velvet, and trimmed round the brim with black or gold fringing (Polidori Calamandrei, op. cit., pp. 126-7). Such hats were probably used when travelling, and appear in paintings worn by riders and grooms. (Herald)

CAPPUCCIO (F). The women's version of the male cappucchio remains in fashion in the early years of the century. But generally, throughout the Quattrocento, the feminine cappucchio is simply the hooded part of a garment such as the mantello. (Herald)

COAZZONE (F). A broad plait or roll of hair, often decorated with ribbon or braiding, which hangs down the back. It is sometimes worn with a trinzale. (Herald)

COLLARETTI/COLLARINO. A little neck-band or collar. (Florio 108)

D

DAMASCHINO. Damask, a monochrome figured textile with a ground of satin (warp-faced) and a pattern in sateen (weft-faced). The origins of this textile are commonly ascribed to Damascus. (Herald)

A DIVISA/DIVISATO. Parti-coloured. The hose (calze) are often worn mi-parti, sometimes as fashion, sometimes as part of a livery. (Herald)

DOSSI. Skins of fur from the back of an animal. (Herald)

E

ERMELLINI. Ermine, a highly prized fur, rarely used to line an undergarment throughout, but rather reserved for areas -- necklines, sleeves, and hems -- where it will be shown off. All references to this and other furs are made in the plural, thus not merely indicating the type of fur, but the fact that many skins must be used to make up a substantial area of fur. (Herald)

F

FALDIA (F). An underskirt of linen held out by means of horizontal bands padded with cotton wool or linen fibre. The fashion appears in the latter part of the century. (Herald)

FARSETTINO (F). Related to the farsetto, doublet, of men's dress. A farsettino da donna with 16 silver buttons appears in the inventory of Riccardo del Bene of 1411. It was probably a kind of undergarment, the buttons of which would show, its collar rising above the neckline of the fuller garments worn on top. (Polidori Calamandrei, p. 128.) (Herald)

FAZZOLETTO. A kerchief had various uses. Worn by women, the fine silk or linen fazzoletti were tucked into or worn over the lower necklines of their dresses. (Herald)

FERMAGLIO. A brooch or hat badge, also known as a brochetta or medaglio depending on its form and use. A versatile piece of jewelry worn on the shoulder, on a headdress, the sleeve, or the bodice of a garment. Invariably made on a large scale, the fermaglio was effective from a distance. Some brooches bore figures or emblems in relief, sometimes with heraldic significance. (Herald)

FILETTO. The very edge of a border or hem, which was sometimes trimmed with narrow strips of fur. A Florentine sumptuary legislation of 1471 allowed women's veste to have filetti, garzi, or orzi of fur. (C Mazzi, Provvisioni suntuarie fiorentine, 29 novembre 1464, 29 febbraio 1471, Florence, 1908, p. 10.) (Herald)

FODORE/FODORA. A lining of any sort. Can also mean a sheath or scabbard. (Florio 191).

FRENELLO (F). A hair ornament -- a string of pearls, which is entwined around the twists of real and false hair and fine silk veil. (Herald)

G

GABBANO (M). A heavy cape with sleeves, used especially for protection against bad weather, but also as an elegant overgarment. (Herald)

GIORNEA (M). An open-sided overgarment which, as with the women's version, takes the place of the fourteenth-century guarnacca. But it is shorter than the guarnacca, and is sometimes worn in a military context. It is worn directly over the farsetto or zupone. San Barnardino despised the giornea, likening it to a horsecloth trimmed with fringes down the sides and about the hem. The giornea often bears embroidered devices, such as the three zornee de raxo cremisino, embroidered with beautiful pearls and the symbol of a cloth, suggested by Ludovico il Moro. (Herald)

GONNELLA/GONNA/SOTTANA (F). The fourteenth-century term for the fifteenth-century gamurra. (Herald)

GONNELLA (M). The fourteenth-century version of the veste or vestito, and in the fifteenth century, a relatively short form of gown worn by men. The gonnellino is a shorter version still, worn by younger men. (Herald)

GORGERONE (M). The part of a suit of armor which protects the neck and shoulders. (Herald)

GORGIERE (F). The equivalent of the French gorgerette; it is a silk or linen veil which covers the neck. (Herald)

GUANTI (M/F). Gloves. In the second half of the century, guanti di camoscio (chamois leather) are quite frequently mentioned. Galeazzo Maria Sforza ordered a pair for dancing, lined in scarlet. The gloves made in Milan were quite highly prized in othercities. (Herald)

GUARDACORE (M/F). Possibly worn as a nightshirt, for the young Isabella d'Este possessed 'uno guardacore overo camisia da portare la nocte' of rosato cloth (Levi Pisetzky, La Storia del Costume, op cit, p. 285). The 1445-6 registers of the Court of Ferrara note that the Marquis Leonello ordered two braccia of cetanino (zetanino) raso crimisino to have a guardicore made for wearing in bed. (Herald)

GUARNACCA (F). The term continues to be used in the fifteenth century, but is more commonly called a giornea. A statue issued in Perugia in 1445 permitted a guarnacca as part of a bride's outfit, provided that its value did not exceed 30 florins, and that if it were made of velvet or silk, it was not decorated with embroidery. (Herald)

GUARNELLO (M/F). Both a kind of linen or cotton textile, and the feminine garment constructed from such a fabric. The guarnello probably has the same significance as a rascia. It is a simple, reasonably loose-fitting dress, similar to the cotta, but sometimes worn withuot sleeves. Guarnello, being cotton or linen, may be registered in inventories with the rest of the biancheria --chemises (camicie), towels and kerchiefs. The guarnello, rascia or saia is the standard form of dress for angels. It is worn by children as a simple, washable garment, and possibly also by pregnant women. There are also examples of guarnelli listed under items of male clothing. (Herald)

GUAZZERONE. A border of a hemline, sometimes made from a contrasting fabric. (Herald)

H

I

INDISIA. A type of lining material, possibly of wool. (Herald)

J

K

L

LACCA. Lacquer, a resinous substance born from the branches of some trees in the Euphorbia family through the activity of certain parasites. It was imported from India and Indo-China. As a red dye, it was rather precious, and appears to have been used infrequently. (Herald)

LATTIZI/LATTITIO. A sort of musk or civet-cat. Used for linings. (Florio 278).

LENZA. A ribbon or braid tied round the crown of the head, and often decorated with a jewel over the forehead. (Example: Leonardo's La Bella Ferroniere.) (Herald)

LISTA. A strip of cloth applied to a garment to give a bold striped effect, such as is found on the dress worn by Beatrice d'Este in the Pala Sforzesca. (Herald)

LUCCO (M/F). A form of long gown worn in Florence, initially as part of official or academic dress, and subsequently in a more general context. It was open in front and fastened at the neck; it also had slits at the sides to allow the arms to pass through. (Herald)

M

MAGLIA/MAGLIETTA. A metal eyelet or little loop through which laces are threaded, sometimes made of silver or silver-gilt. (Herald)

N

NASTRO/NASTRI. Any sort of fine silk ribbon. Can be loose, or made up into fine knots, roses, or devices made of silk ribbons as women use to wear upon their heads and about them. Also the name of a sign or star in heaven, also the part of the ring where the stone is set or the seal engraved. (Florio 328)

NERO. Black, a mourning color, as in "gamurra nero" (Guasti 610). (Florio 331)

NUOVA. New, as in "gamurra di rascia nera, nuova" (Guasti 610). Bear in mind that a gown was considered "new" for several years according to sumptuary law. (Florio 336)

O

ORLO. The hem of a garment. Corazza in his Florentine diary recorded on 12 November 1435 the boys of a brigata wearing fur-lined tunics with the hems turned back on the outside (con l'orlo di fuori) by a third of a braccio (see also FILLETI). (Herald)

P

PAIA/PAIO. A pair of something, as in "3 paia di calze" (Guasti 611). (Florio 365)

PAGONAZZO. Adj, "purple" (Florio 350).

PANCIE. Skins of fur from the underside of the animal's belly, which are of finer quality than those from the back (dossi). (Herald)

PANERUZZO/PANERUZZOLE. A bundle of clothes or linens. (Florio 354).

PANNICELLI. Cloths of linen, usually worn by women over the head and/or shoulders. (Herald)

PANNI. All manner of clothing, raiment, or apparel, be it woollen or linen. (Florio 354).

PASSATEMPO (F). A short cloak, open at the sides, rather like some giornee. (Herald)

PAVONAZZO/PAONAZZO/PAGONAZZO. Literally, peacock-coloured. However, it does not mean peacock-blue or -green, but rather relates to the color of the peahen -- a brownish tint of red. Red dye forms the basis of pavonazzo, the quality of which depends on the type of dye used, whether it be cremisi or grano. (Herald)

PEDULE. The protective sole attached to the bottom of each calza -- necessary when shoes or boots were not worn over the hose. (Herald)

PEDULI. Plural of PEDULE. Linen socks worn on feet, but also the specific part of hose that covers the feet. (Florio 364)

Q

R

RASCIA. Silk, as in "gamurra di rascia nera" (Guasti 610). Also a spiderweb. (Florio 422)

RASCIA (F). A garment named after the textile from which it was made, rather in the way that the guarnello was. (Herald)

S

T

TABARRO/TABARRONE (M). A heavy overgarment, often lined with fur. (Herald)

TAFFETA. A plain woven silk, used for lining sleeves, and for modest silk dresses. (Herald)

TENIA. A head-band, fillet, hair-lace, or the knot for fastening the fillet. A woolen turban-like hat worn by either sex. (Florio 557)

TERZANELLO. A silk cloth, not of high quality, sometimes used for lining. (Herald)

TOGA/TOGATO. A procession of scholars of the University of Bologna in 1431 was led by rectors and public speakers dressed in splendid toghe. Th use of toghe, or the wearing of a veste togato probably bears a conscious reference to dress in classical Rome. (Herald)

TREMOLANTI. Small pieces of decorative metalwork, often incorporated with fringing and chains, e.g. on headdresses. (Herald)

TRINZALE (F). A piece of fine cloth covering the hair which, in the case of Bianca Maria Sforza, covers both the back of her head and the long roll of hair (coazzone) hanging down her back, tied with ribbons and pearls. (Herald)

TURCA (M/F). Corresponds to the tunica alla turchesca. Its name suggests an Oriental, possibly Turkish, origin. It is a long garment with sleeves, probably opening down the front, and perhaps with short slits at sides as well. On knighting a Genoese nobleman, Ludovico il Moro adorned him with a turca (Malaguzzi Valeri, op.cit., p. 233); it was probably an ample garment. In an inventory of 1491, Anna Maria Sforza is listed as possessing 'una turcha scarlatta fodrata de nocte'. It is not certain whether this garment was meant to be a closed nightshift to be worn in bed, or an open lined dressing-gown. (Herald)

TURCHINO. A colour, possibly a turquoise blue. (Herald)

U

V

VAGELLO. A dye vat containing a solution of reduction dyes (woad and indigo). (Herald)

VAIO. A general turn for fur, used for lining overgarments but not often shown around the borders. For example, a cioppa may be lined with vaio and the more valuable ermine, the ermine being used around the facings down the front opening, around the hem and the sleeves, where it would show. (Herald)

VELO/VELETTO DA TESTA (F). A veil; many are listed in inventories, and may be of fine linen or silk. (Herald)

VERZINO. Brazil-wood, an important source of red dye, obtained from the trees of the Caesalpinia family, introduced to the West by the Venetians through their trading with the East; the country of Brazil was later named after its large number of indigenous trees of the Caesalpinia species. (Herald)

VESCAPO (M/F). Recorded in the north of Italy, it is probably the type of cloak (mantello) worn over the head. (Herald)

VESPAIO (F). Literally translated, it means a wasp's nest. In fact, it was a netted headdress worn by women, often made of strings of pearls. (Herald)

VESTE/VESTA. Either the term corresponds to the gonnella of the fourteenth century, in which case it is a man's gown with sleeves, made from a variety of textiles; or it applies more generally to a suit of clothes. (Herald)

VESTIMENTO (M/F). Later in the fifteenth century, the term which replaces the words sacco and pellanda, a regularly worn type of overgarment. (Herald)

VESTITO (M/F). A general term, particularly during the latter part of the century, for an overgown with sleeves, probably a heavier version of the veste. In the splendid trousseau of Bianca Maria Sforza in 1493, there was just one vestito; but it was an extremely precious embroidered one (di raso cremisino recamato) with a hem (bulzana) of embroidered raso turchino, and over the breast 80 little jewels with a ruby and four pearls in each one. Ludovico il Moro once gave 17-1/2 braccia of zetonino avvellutato morello to Messer Mariotto da Reggio, oratore, to get himself made a vestito and a zuppone (Malaguzzi Valeri, op.cit., p. 422). (Herald)

W

X

Y

Z