
McCalls 4696 was used to make the bodice. I
already had the sleeves made from a custom pattern, and the skirt was just
trapezoidal panels gathered to the bodice waist.
Materials used for the bodice: about 1 yard of
60" pink stretch denim (sort of dusty-rose-colored twill), 14-20 1/2"
brass lacing rings of the sort used for upholstery, sueded leather cord
for lacings. Cotton broadcloth for lining, and inside it, a corded lining
of hemp cord sandwiched with white handkerchief-weight linen. The skirt
has about 6 yards of the same twill pleated into the waist. The sleeves
are about a yard of blue jacquard fabric. Thread, both embroidery
needlepoint for the decoration and regular sewing thread for seams.
Underneath I wear a white handkerchief-weight
linen camicia whose neckline is exactly the same as the neckline of the
dress, just a little higher. Its sleeves are taken from M4696's sleeve
pattern, cut a little fuller but not much, since early-period Florentine
doesn't use the ultra-poofy chemise sleeves of later years.

Click to enlarge picture. This was made with just some blue
jacquard from the dollar store (I suspect strongly it's supposed to be a
tablecloth), with the back seam cut open from above the elbow down. It closes
with two silk ribbon loops around rose buttons, nothing to tie or actually
button. It is lined in fuschia cotton twill for body, and it definitely does have
lots of body. It fastens to the dress with three sets of cording (the armhole has
lacing rings hidden underneath the fabric). You can just barely tell the rose
buttons on the blue fabric at the joins.

Click to enlarge picture. This is a closeup of the shoulder.
Obviously the camicia beneath this is far too fluffy for the period --
a less full camicia looks much better on a simple gown like this.