A White Linen Doublet

White linen doublet, 1470s

Francesco Cossa, "Triumph of Venus", 1470. Palazzo Schifanoia, Ferrara, Italy.

Notice the sleeve on this figure, how the puffy upper sleeve goes to the elbow and then is split on the more fitted lower sleeve. While we're at it, check out the giornea -- how thick and full-cut it is, and how it overlaps but is not sewn up the side seams. The v-neck back has a little cross pendant dangling down.

A white linen doublet based on Period Patterns 43. Though this pattern is a challenge for new seamstresses, it does produce stunning final results. This doublet wasn't easy to fit, but once I got the hang of it after the beige farsetto, it wasn't hard to duplicate at all. In retrospect I'd want the neck to fit more closely, but I'm very pleased with how this came out overall, and the test victim liked how it fit.

It is made of mediumweight white 100% linen, edged here in burgundy-and-metallic-gold Europa trim (which bled; subsequent baths of Rit Dye-Out have rendered the trim a fetching mauve-and-metallic-gold shade which we actually like much better). It fastens in an unusual manner, with a series of bows across the front. I took inspiration for this method of closure from a portrait listed in Elizabeth Birbari's Dress in Italian Painting, which can be found, along with how to make these bows, here.

This is an easy-to-wear garment, unlined for summer wear.

How to tie the bows on this doublet.

How to find a merchant selling Period Patterns.

An overview of Birbari's Dress in Italian Painting

Sandro Botticelli, "Purification of the Leper". Sistine Chapel, Vatican. Inspiration for this doublet.

This page last updated: July 10, 2009

All text copyright Vangelista di Antonio Dellaluna, except where otherwise noted. All painted portraits are understood to be copyright- free and are presented as research aids only.